Alter LWB Restoration

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This topic contains 26 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by mrmosky mrmosky 5 days, 6 hours ago.

Viewing 7 posts - 21 through 27 (of 27 total)
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  • #1050
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    I’ve ordered some steel for the welding on the rear of the vehicle.

    Meantime one or two more jobs are underway. The brakes are now working. The refurbished caliper, and new fittings, and flexible hose were fitted, and the brakes bled through. Once I am ready to get it on the road (maybe next year?) I will treat it to new discs and pads. For now, the old ones will be OK to move it around.

    Another small job was to remove and free up the wiper spindles. These did clean up OK and are now free. I need to get or make a new plastic washer before I can refit them.

    The last job today was to clean up and paint the rear propshaft. The U joints are fine and free, so a coat or two of red oxide, followed by black should smarten it up.

    • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 3 days ago by ookmooi ookmooi.
    • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 3 days ago by ookmooi ookmooi.
    #1051
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    Not too much progress this week as I am waiting for a new shed/workshop to be delivered. Then the existing workshop will be dismantled and the UMM moved onto the base, which will be it’s parking position.

    The painted propshaft was re-fitted and the wiper mechanism and motor have been cleaned, lubed and fitted. The wipers are now working, even the park function. This wasn’t working at first, because I found that the wiring to the motor was a bit puzzling. One pair of wires from the switch had been swapped over. I found out what the correct wiring should be, and corrected it. I also found that there is a connection for intermittent wipe, and the switch supports this. There is no relay, however. I think this would be fairly easy to arrange. I wonder whether anyone has done this on another UMM already?

    #1068

    pete
    Member

    Hi Geoff,

    Looks like you’re making a good job, can I ask who this Simon cox chap is and do you have a number for him please? By chance I’m in carslisle tomorrow and wouldn’t mind looking him up if he’s in? Seems like he might have some parts by the sounds of it? Thanks Pete

    #1072
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    Hi Pete,
    I believe Simon has replied to you now. There are a couple of Facebook groups dedicated to Umm. The Umm owners club is one. Parts are available from Portugal, although a lot of parts are adapted from Peugeot or Renault. Loads of information and advice around.
    Geoff

    #1333
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    After the new shed was delivered, all the contents of the old garage had to be transferred to it. Then the old garage was dismantled and the mess cleared up. So now the UMM has been moved to it’s permanent position.

    Some more concrete will be delivered to make the Umm-pad wider, and a small shed may appear at some point, to contain bulky items, like the trolley jack and axle stands. There may eventually be a carport or similar to provide a roof. But not for a while.

    The new shed is almost sorted, with some work left to do on panelling the interior walls.

    So now I can start to get back to working on the UMM.  The rear door is a priority, and also the transfer box needs to come out. Plenty to do here, but at least I now have the space to work on it.

    GeoffUMM Pad

    #1363
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    One little job I wanted to do was to check the cooling system was working properly. I had run the engine for short times, and even driven the UMM to position it into it’s new parking spot, but I hadn’t run it long enough to check whether the thermostat opened or pump was circulating the water.

    So today I ran the engine for a longer time, and used an infrared temperature sensor to check the engine temperature.

    Raytek Temperature gun

    This was interesting. The engine warmed up fairly quickly, but the top and bottom radiator hoses stayed cold. Eventually the engine block was measuring over 90 degrees C, and the radiator hoses were still cool, and the radiator too. So the thermostat had not opened. I was just about to give up on it, when the top radiator hose suddenly started to get warmer, and then the radiator got warmer too. The thermostat had opened. Now I could measure the temperature drop over the radiator, and the engine block temperature reduced to about 75 degrees. So I think that the thermostat was stuck at first and then freed itself. So pump and thermostat now seem to be good. No leaks either, which is a bonus. So the next thing to do is drain and refill with antifreeze mixture, to prevent corrosion.

    The sensor I used is a Raytek Raynger, which come up on ebay second hand for £20 now and again. A useful bit of kit for this type of job.

    Geoff

    • This reply was modified 1 week, 2 days ago by mrmosky mrmosky.
    #1393
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    Back on the bodywork now. I am working towards a rear door fitment, but the hinge positions needed replacing. So first thing was to cut out the broken section and make up a replacement section. Before that though, I marked the panel for the hole positions.

    Then trial fit of the patch.

    Welded in the patch and then same procedure for the lower hinge position. I need to upgrade my welder I think, After talking to fellow UMM owner (and ace welder) Chris Wheeler, my welder is struggling with this thickness of metal. Then trial fit of the pickup door to check position of hinge holes. I have made two plates that go inside the panel, these plates have been tapped M8 to take the bolts. New stainless ones are on order.

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