Alter LWB Restoration

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This topic contains 45 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by mrmosky mrmosky 2 days, 22 hours ago.

Viewing 6 posts - 41 through 46 (of 46 total)
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  • #1431
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    Here is a photo of the rear door after a couple of coats of paint. I may flatten this and apply a final top coat. This colour is a mid grey. The plan is to paint the roof a lighter shade of grey.

    The tool shed has now arrived too. This will be used to store the trolley jack, and other stuff that I don’t want to keep taking back to the shed after working on the UMM.

    #1437
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    I haven’t been able to work on the UMM for a couple of weeks, due to one thing or another.  Today, though was a big step forward, as the rear door is now fitted.  A little bit of adjustment is still required, but it will be fine.  Now the car is almost weatherproof for the first time in years.

    As can be seen, I decided to delete the rear door mounted spare wheel carrier.  Having the spare wheel on the door makes the door assembly really heavy, putting strain on the hinges, and making it difficult to open and close. It also restricts rear vision.  As this is a long wheelbase version, I can find another place to stow the wheel. Underneath, or inside the body.

    The door colour is the final coat, and the rest of the body will be this colour eventually, with a lighter roof colour.

    The other news is that I have bought a recently reconditioned cylinder head for the UMM. This was from a Peugeot 505 originally. A set of reconditioned injectors also came with it.  This will come in useful too.

    Next job is to finish off the alignment of the rear door and fit the door catch on the inside.

     

     

     

     

    #1438
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    I have now fitted the rear door catch and aligned the door a bit better. The alignment is tricky, as the door is a good fit within the aperture.  At one side, the glass is not in contact with the rubber seal, but this is because the fibre-glass top has been damaged in that area and will need to be repaired.

    The other job this week was to remove the thermostat from the engine and test it. Then this was refitted, and the cooling system refilled with antifreeze. As the weather is starting to get colder, this was needed.  The engine was run up to temperature, to check the thermostat operation, and get rid of any air in the system. All seems to be OK.

    There may not be much to report as the Winter is coming, but I shall try to do as much as possible.

    Geoff

    #1456
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    After the holiday period, it’s time to update progress on my UMM restoration. Work on it has almost stopped during the Winter, but I have been starting it up every week or two.  Each time I started it, I found I needed to top up the antifreeze in the radiator. After replacing a couple of hose clips, there was still some leakage, and I was beginning to suspect the head gasket.

    last time, though, I notices some wetness round the back of the radiator, and traced this to a leak on the seam of the top tank. So this will need to be sent off for repair at some point. At least it is not the head gasket!

    The other job was to check the steering universal joints. I noticed that the steering felt notchy when turning. I removed the steering link shaft and found that one of the lower joints had partially siezed up. I managed to free it up, but the joint was obviously damaged by rust. Another result of leaving the vehicle stationary so long.  So I ordered a new UMM part from Portugal as  a replacement, which arrived this morning.

     I will be fitting the shaft back on the vehicle, when the weather is drier.

    I also got Jorge at UMMonline4x4 to send me both differential covers for the front and rear axles. These are the heavy duty ones, and so are not available as a new part. I therefore bought used covers, which will clean up nicely.  The old cover on the UMM has rust holes around the sealing flange, and would not be easy to repair.  This is in preparation for removing the axles for de-rusting and cleaning up, which will be done this year.

    #1461
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    The weather is forecast to be good this week, and so it is time to get on with the body repairs. First area to be replaced is in the rear panel. This was dented and rusty, so a large section was cut out and a new one was made from 2mm steel.

    Then this was welded, and then smoothed off and painted.

    Behind this panel was an extension of the rear crossmember, that is used to support the bumper halves.  I am not going to be using the standard bumpers, and so I cut this short, as it won’t be needed. This will make it possible to paint the rear of the repair panel.

    There’s lot’s more to do, but it’s a start for 2019.

     

     

    #1467
    mrmosky
    mrmosky
    Participant

    I found that making a flange on a sheet of 2mm steel was quite difficult, so I decided to make a simple bending tool to help with the many repair sections I will need.

    This is a copy of some designs that I have seen for sale, but made a bit stronger.  The maximum width it can bend is about 300 mm. Any more would take a lot of force to operate.

    Here is a test piece I bent in 2mm sheet.  This should make the repairs a bit easier.

     

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