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I moved it over to the side of the drive today, to sort out the working area a bit. It gave an opportunity for a photograph too.
Once the paint is fully hardened, I’ll refit these. The bottom side panels will be the next things to prepare for painting. Then pretty much all the painting will be completed.
I removed the rear side windows to make painting the top rear panel easier. It also gave the opportunity ot clean the sliding windows. They now run much more freely.
The new brake pipes and rear flex hose are now fitted, the brakes are bled and so there are brakes on all four wheels at last. The only thing that remains on the brakes is to fit new discs. This will be done just before the MOT, as I don’t want them to go rusty, sitting on the car.
The indicators are fitted and working, also the headlamps. These are not the ones I will be using finally, but I want to keep them safe and unused until the UMM is ready for the road. The wipers work too. Almost all electrical systems are now operational, although the brake lights will have to wait until I have fitted them on the back.
Today was a bit of a milestone in that I have welded the last repair section on the exterior bodywork. This piece is on the rear, right hand side.
There will be more welding on the inside floor eventually, but for now, I am going to concentrate on getting the exterior ready for painting. So plenty of filler and rubbing down to do!
Hi Martin,
Have you had any responses yet?
If not then please let me have further details and I may be able to help. My email is mrmosky@yahoo.co.uk, and some pictures would be great.
Geoff
Hi Brad,
Try posting on the UMM Facebook pages. There are 2 uk ones, umm owners club, and umm alter and transact owners.
There tends to be more traffic on there.
Geoff
The gear selector knob split into two pieces the other week. I looked at getting another one the same, but original peugeot ones are quite expensive, as they were also used on the popular 205.
So I decided to make one out of some aluminium that I had in the shed. That won’t break!
Here is the window frame, ready to accept the replacement glass. The glass can be removed and replaced by flexing the frame vertically. This gives enough clearance to enable the glass to come out of its tracks. The assembled frame can then be refitted into the door. It goes in from the outside, with the rubber carefully prised into position on the door frame.
The Driver’s door sliding window has a rattle. There is a U-shaped plastic piece on the bottom of the glass that acts as a kind of runner in the slot of the window frame. This had worn out. There is also a rubber section at the top of the frame to help seal the glass, and this was missing.
Fortunately, I had a spare window, and so I could dismantle the window to combine the best parts.
This is the window, showing the plastic runner that wears out. I had a passenger side one of these, which is good because the passenger side tends not to be as worn, as it is less used. All that is required is to remove the two screws from the catch and invert it to fit the other side.
I have also removed the rear towing bar frame. I don’t intend to tow with this vehicle and I can use the space underneath for a spare wheel carrier. (Yet to be made).
The rear springs I got from Sunny are now fitted to the car. They look fine, and the car sits nice and level.
Sunny, also had some front plastic pieces – light surrounds and grille. These are in much better shape, and so are now trial fitted on the vehicle.
Last week, I visited an ex UMM owner, Sunny, over in Leicestershire. He had some parts for sale, including some used suspension springs. These were a bit rusty from storage, but a bit of wire brushing, and paint soon had them looking good. The rear springs are particularly useful, as those on my UMM are quite worn, and a probable MOT failure. These will be fitted soon.
The wiring behind the dash is now pretty much sorted out. I have refitted the steering wheel and the column switches.
Made a start on the wiring, after installing the engine cover and dashboard. This is proceeding slowly, not helped by the fact that there seems to be several different wiring diagrams for UMM’s and it’s a case of finding which one is the best fit.
It is not a complicated vehicle though, so it will be possible to sort it out.
Cylinder head changed for the spare one I had, with new gasket and bolts. All bolted up and checked for leaks. Seems OK at the moment, and is running well.
The next job is to put the rear engine cover on again, and refill with antifreeze mixture. Then maybe I can reinstall the dashboard and make a start on the wiring. We’ll see.
It’s often one step forwards and two steps back on this type of project. I had the rear engine cover and heater fitted and all piped up, and thought it would be prudent to check for leaks. So I ran the engine up to temperature. I then found that there was water vapour and drips coming out of the engine breather tube. Sure enough, there was definitely water in the oil. The cylinder head gasket had obviously failed. This had been fine up until now, as far as I know. So nothing else for it but to take the rear panel back off and the radiator, and then remove the cylinder head. The gasket does look a bit suspect in one area, so that would explain the leak. I have the spare cylinder head if I need it, and also a new gasket. So I ordered up some new bolts. The components will be cleaned up and then reassembly can begin.
