mrmosky

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Viewing 20 posts - 121 through 140 (of 180 total)
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  • in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1506
    mrmosky
    Participant

    More bodywork now underway after a brief layoff. This is the side storage compartment, and the floor was rusty. So that has now been cut out.

    One new support piece is in position, and there will be three more of these. I will then put a plywood floor on to these bearers, to form the bottom of the storage bin.

    Then next will be the drivers side floor.

    This has also seen a repair in the past, but the overall condition is not as bad as some I’ve seen.

    geoff

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1501
    mrmosky
    Participant

    So today, the weather was good, so I was able to replace the engine mounting, and also finish the replacement of the engine sump. I had removed this a couple of weeks ago to deal with some bad dents in it. I guess someone had run into a rock or two!

    So off it came and was subjected to some tin bashing. Then a coat of red oxide followed by two coats of hammerite  black. Then I ordered a new sump gasket and waited for the weather to improve.

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1498
    mrmosky
    Participant

    The work goes on. I needed to remove the exhaust pipe, to repair some rust in the side panel. The result was a broken stud on the exhaust manifold. So that had to come off. To do this I needed to remove the engine mount. I found that had split, so a new one has been ordered.

    And then the manifold has been repaired with helicoils, and replaced.

    This is how it goes, sometimes.

     

    in reply to: better to repair transcat roof or replace? #1489
    mrmosky
    Participant

    I have the workshop manual printed out for the transcat. You are welcome to have it, if you don’t have one.

    in reply to: better to repair transcat roof or replace? #1488
    mrmosky
    Participant

    The parts situation is pretty good, with many spares new and used available from Portugal. They speak good English and will post too.

    Ummonline4x4 is one of them.

     

    Geoff

    in reply to: better to repair transcat roof or replace? #1485
    mrmosky
    Participant

    Congratulations on buying an old Umm transcat. Have you posted on one of the Umm Facebook sites? People tend to read those more often.

    Repairing the roof is always an option. The steel is quite thick and easy to weld. Other that that, you could turn it into a pick-up.

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by mrmosky.
    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1483
    mrmosky
    Participant

    Moving forward.  The rear wheel arch is fitted. It still needs some tidying up, but I gave it a coat of red oxide paint to protect it. Rain is forecast for sometime tomorrow. So now we can see what it will look like eventually. The next part is to replace some rusty parts in the inner wheel arch. They will then be welded to the outer wheel arch.

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1482
    mrmosky
    Participant

    I have cut out the panel to fit the new wheel arch, but before I can weld it in, there are some repairs needed to the inner panels of the body.

     

    In order to make this easier, I decided to remove the rear axle. It will need to come out anyway for rust removal.

    So here it is. It was easier than I thought it would be, as all the spring bolts, and the dampers were not seized solid.

    I wire brushed it briefly, and the rust was coming off nicely, so maybe it won’t have to be shot blasted.  We’ll see.  As mentioned before, this is the GKN type axle.

    So that was good progress today. The weather is forecast fine for tomorrow too.

     

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1472
    mrmosky
    Participant

    The weather continues to be dry and warm, so more bodywork repairs this week.  The driver’s side rear corner has been worked on, by chopping our rusty sections and welding in new. There is still more to do here, but it is much more solid now.

    I am also trying to make some flared wheel arches. This will avoid having the plastic edges on the body. The plastic is always a trap for mud and moisture, and causes corrosion underneath. So if I replace the wheel arch with metal, I can get a good effect with no rust traps.  This is what I have been making today. It is nearly finished, and so I have fitted it for a trial, to see what it will look like when finished.

    So far, I like it.  I’ll finish this off tomorrow, and weld it in.

     

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1467
    mrmosky
    Participant

    I found that making a flange on a sheet of 2mm steel was quite difficult, so I decided to make a simple bending tool to help with the many repair sections I will need.

    This is a copy of some designs that I have seen for sale, but made a bit stronger.  The maximum width it can bend is about 300 mm. Any more would take a lot of force to operate.

    Here is a test piece I bent in 2mm sheet.  This should make the repairs a bit easier.

     

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1461
    mrmosky
    Participant

    The weather is forecast to be good this week, and so it is time to get on with the body repairs. First area to be replaced is in the rear panel. This was dented and rusty, so a large section was cut out and a new one was made from 2mm steel.

    Then this was welded, and then smoothed off and painted.

    Behind this panel was an extension of the rear crossmember, that is used to support the bumper halves.  I am not going to be using the standard bumpers, and so I cut this short, as it won’t be needed. This will make it possible to paint the rear of the repair panel.

    There’s lot’s more to do, but it’s a start for 2019.

     

     

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1456
    mrmosky
    Participant

    After the holiday period, it’s time to update progress on my UMM restoration. Work on it has almost stopped during the Winter, but I have been starting it up every week or two.  Each time I started it, I found I needed to top up the antifreeze in the radiator. After replacing a couple of hose clips, there was still some leakage, and I was beginning to suspect the head gasket.

    last time, though, I notices some wetness round the back of the radiator, and traced this to a leak on the seam of the top tank. So this will need to be sent off for repair at some point. At least it is not the head gasket!

    The other job was to check the steering universal joints. I noticed that the steering felt notchy when turning. I removed the steering link shaft and found that one of the lower joints had partially siezed up. I managed to free it up, but the joint was obviously damaged by rust. Another result of leaving the vehicle stationary so long.  So I ordered a new UMM part from Portugal as  a replacement, which arrived this morning.

     I will be fitting the shaft back on the vehicle, when the weather is drier.

    I also got Jorge at UMMonline4x4 to send me both differential covers for the front and rear axles. These are the heavy duty ones, and so are not available as a new part. I therefore bought used covers, which will clean up nicely.  The old cover on the UMM has rust holes around the sealing flange, and would not be easy to repair.  This is in preparation for removing the axles for de-rusting and cleaning up, which will be done this year.

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1438
    mrmosky
    Participant

    I have now fitted the rear door catch and aligned the door a bit better. The alignment is tricky, as the door is a good fit within the aperture.  At one side, the glass is not in contact with the rubber seal, but this is because the fibre-glass top has been damaged in that area and will need to be repaired.

    The other job this week was to remove the thermostat from the engine and test it. Then this was refitted, and the cooling system refilled with antifreeze. As the weather is starting to get colder, this was needed.  The engine was run up to temperature, to check the thermostat operation, and get rid of any air in the system. All seems to be OK.

    There may not be much to report as the Winter is coming, but I shall try to do as much as possible.

    Geoff

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1437
    mrmosky
    Participant

    I haven’t been able to work on the UMM for a couple of weeks, due to one thing or another.  Today, though was a big step forward, as the rear door is now fitted.  A little bit of adjustment is still required, but it will be fine.  Now the car is almost weatherproof for the first time in years.

    As can be seen, I decided to delete the rear door mounted spare wheel carrier.  Having the spare wheel on the door makes the door assembly really heavy, putting strain on the hinges, and making it difficult to open and close. It also restricts rear vision.  As this is a long wheelbase version, I can find another place to stow the wheel. Underneath, or inside the body.

    The door colour is the final coat, and the rest of the body will be this colour eventually, with a lighter roof colour.

    The other news is that I have bought a recently reconditioned cylinder head for the UMM. This was from a Peugeot 505 originally. A set of reconditioned injectors also came with it.  This will come in useful too.

    Next job is to finish off the alignment of the rear door and fit the door catch on the inside.

     

     

     

     

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1431
    mrmosky
    Participant

    Here is a photo of the rear door after a couple of coats of paint. I may flatten this and apply a final top coat. This colour is a mid grey. The plan is to paint the roof a lighter shade of grey.

    The tool shed has now arrived too. This will be used to store the trolley jack, and other stuff that I don’t want to keep taking back to the shed after working on the UMM.

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1429
    mrmosky
    Participant

    This week I have been painting the rear door. I’m using Craftsman coach paints, and applying by brush. So far, the results look good. I think that a vehicle like the Umm doesn’t need to have a “showroom” finish. I will post some pictures when it is done.

     

    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1420
    mrmosky
    Participant

    Today’s job was to reassemble the front propshaft.  The new universal joint kits arrived yesterday.  They are genuine Hardy Spicer HS166 units.  I found these on ebay, being sold in the USA.  Still the cost of the two plus shipping was only about £25. Funny to think that these were made about 10 miles from where I live, and have made the round trip to America and back.

    I had painted the propshaft, after rust removal, and so the joints were fitted and grease added. So here is a sequence of the stages in the process and the finished propshaft.

    Firstly, the prop was put in the electrolytic bath, as I mentioned previously. That removed all the rust over a couple of days.

    After wire brushing, the prop was disassembled.  Then painted with a coat of red oxide and a finish of hammerite black.

     

    Finished article.

    The other news was the door I had ordered from Portugal has arrived.  This will now be prepped and painted, ready to be fitted. Thanks to Jorge at UMMonline4x4

     

    • This reply was modified 3 years, 1 month ago by mrmosky.
    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1418
    mrmosky
    Participant

    While I am waiting for the new universal joint kits to arrive, I thought it would be interesting to dismantle the old transfer box to see if it could be repaired.

    I soon found the damage.  The rear output shaft bearing has broken into pieces.

    Here is the roller bearing cage and a couple of the rollers that I recovered from the housing.  The other bits of the cage had spread into the box.  They don’t seem to have damaged the chain or gears, which is good.

    Unfortunately, though, the outer bearing race had been rotating in the housing, wearing it to a sloppy size.

    This outer bearing race should be a good push fit in the housing, but it fell out easily.  That makes the housing scrap, because even if a new bearing were to be fitted, the extra clearance would not be any good for alignment.

    So the transfer box might as well be scrapped, as I cannot see any need to keep it for spares.

    It is just as well that I decided to buy the newer transfer box off Ricardo.

    This fault with the transfer box is why the UMM was taken off the road 5 or so years ago by Gregor. I guess it was caused by running in 4 wheel drive on tarmac.  That does put an awful lot of strain on the transfer box.  So now I have identified and rectified the original fault.

     

    • This reply was modified 3 years, 1 month ago by mrmosky.
    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1416
    mrmosky
    Participant

    The gearbox installation is now complete.  The last things to do were to clean and install the selector linkage, fit the starter motor, rear propshaft, and install and bleed the clutch slave cylinder.

    I found the easy way to bleed the clutch. The reservoir is filled, and then the bleed nipple is loosened. The clutch lever is then operated from the gearbox end, using a suitable lever. This forces fluid and air out of the bleed nipple. Then the bleed nipple is closed and the clutch lever is allowed to spring back. This draws fluid from the reservoir. After a couple of repeats of this process, all of the air has come out of the bleed nipple, and the clutch is nice and hard.

    Obviously, this would be difficult with the floor in, but maybe possible.

    The front propshaft was quite corroded, and so it has gone in the electrolytic bath for rust removal. I will post pictures of the finished propshaft after treatment.

     

     

     

     

    • This reply was modified 3 years, 1 month ago by mrmosky.
    in reply to: Alter LWB Restoration #1412
    mrmosky
    Participant

    Gearbox and transfer box are now in position. Everything lined up OK.  I put the gearbox in first, and then added the transfer box afterwards.

    The engine crane I recently bought off ebay, has proved to be the ideal tool for this job.

    Now I need to put all the bits and pieces back around the transmission.  The front propshaft needs new bearings, so that’s another job.  The bearings are similar to landrover propshaft. Old number is Hardy Spicer HS166, but these are now hard to find.

    • This reply was modified 3 years, 2 months ago by mrmosky.
Viewing 20 posts - 121 through 140 (of 180 total)