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Back on the front end, the windscreen washers are now fitted and working. Wipers were fitted too. Just need to change the headlamps and fit the side winker repeaters.
Then we should be ready for the MOT test. Planning for early July, if all goes well.
Rear of the UMM is now complete, with the new lower panel fitted. I just need to add a couple of reflectors to the panel. The rear lights are all working well.
Rear lights and new number plate fitted. Just the rear mudflaps to be put on. Then a panel to cover the wiring, and the back will be complete.
New tyres and wheels fitted at last. This is the first time the UMM has sat on all four wheels for a few months, and since the replacement front springs have been fitted. Thankfully, she sits pretty level, which is a relief.
So I took the opportunity to start it, and drive it up the drive and turn it around.
Next job will be the rear lights, which are on order.
The other job was to finish assembling the front hubs, and install the brakes. That’s all done too.
The new tyres are on order and should arrive next week. They couldn’t fit the tyres straight away because the valve holes in the wheels are an “old” size and too big for the tyre valves that they now use. Rear lights will probably be the next job.
The rear floor arrived and is now in position. This is the Buffalo Board I mentioned previously. It is supposed to be waterproof.
New dampers are now mounted. The back is all ready for the new floor, which is on order and should be arriving in the next few days. Once that is fitted, I will be concentrating on assembling the front hubs and brakes. Then new tyres on the wheels, so it will be able to be moved again. I have a list of jobs to do before the MOT, but not too long.
- This reply was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by mrmosky.
And here is what it looks like with the door closed.
It winds up and down using a shaft I made up with a socket welded to the outside end.
Here is a progress report on the rear floor. New support crossmembers have been welded in place and the rear of the chassis has been patched up. I am now intending to use Buffalo board for the rear floor. This is waterproof plywood with a patterned non slip coating on one side. This board will be screwed to the supports from underneath.
I have also fitted a spare wheel winch onto the crossmember. This is from a Ford Ranger, and it lifts the spare wheel up under the car for stowing.
Cutting out the rear floor. The longitudinal chassis sections are OK except for the rearmost part. These will be patched as the work progresses. New angle iron cross members will be welded in before a new floor is installed. The floor will be galvanised steel if I can get any. Apparently there is a shortage of steel at the moment.
The hubs and anti-roll bar are now fitted. I have a turbo anti-roll bar that is new old stock, that is the one that is suitable for UMMs with four dampers on the front. Unfortunately, it does not fit with the GKN hubs, and so I am using the old one, after cleaning and painting.So I have a turbo anti-roll bar for sale if anyone wants one.
I now have all the pieces ready for finishing off the front axle, but I am hesitating to do this. It means fitting the brand new discs, and then it might be sitting unused for a time while I finish the rear floor. So I will probalby do the rear cargo floor next and then finish the front off.
- This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by mrmosky.
The front axle is now back on the car with the replacement springs. Now the assembly of the hubs can be done, and antiroll bar. It shouldn’t be long befre she is back on all four wheels.
After the shaft was replaced, and the top cover was put on, I checked the backlash in the box and adjusted it. Then the box was wire brushed and then given a coat of paint. It is now ready to go back in the car. Hopefully with no leaks!
The main seal is a hydraulic piston seal, which according to the Land Rover forum is the same one that is included in the genuine LR kit, at a price of £150.00! The cheaper kits have na ordinary oil seal, which is not any good. So here is the special seal installed in the box, with the washer and circlip. The second oil seal goes in after this.
Then the shaft can be re-fitted into the box.
The seals were removed from the bottom of the box. They were really soft and loose. No wonder they were leaking.
New seals were bought from FPE seals, online. The main seal is made by Polymaster, part number SA175125-028P, and the second seal that goes after the circlip is oil seal 32mmx45mmx6mm.
I put this into the lathe for some light sanding with fine wet and dry paper.
The shaft looked in reasonable condition, with a slight groove where the seal had rubbed.
The top of the box can then be inspected, the bearings look good, and there was no sideways movement.
I found out that the output shaft can be removed without disturbing the input shaft or the piston shaft. The top cap bolts are removed and then the adjusting lock nut. Then by rotating the adjustment screw, the cap is gradually pushed off. Then the output shaft can be tapped upwards and out of the box, using a soft faced hammer.