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And here is what it looks like with the door closed.
It winds up and down using a shaft I made up with a socket welded to the outside end.
Here is a progress report on the rear floor. New support crossmembers have been welded in place and the rear of the chassis has been patched up. I am now intending to use Buffalo board for the rear floor. This is waterproof plywood with a patterned non slip coating on one side. This board will be screwed to the supports from underneath.
I have also fitted a spare wheel winch onto the crossmember. This is from a Ford Ranger, and it lifts the spare wheel up under the car for stowing.
Cutting out the rear floor. The longitudinal chassis sections are OK except for the rearmost part. These will be patched as the work progresses. New angle iron cross members will be welded in before a new floor is installed. The floor will be galvanised steel if I can get any. Apparently there is a shortage of steel at the moment.
The hubs and anti-roll bar are now fitted. I have a turbo anti-roll bar that is new old stock, that is the one that is suitable for UMMs with four dampers on the front. Unfortunately, it does not fit with the GKN hubs, and so I am using the old one, after cleaning and painting.So I have a turbo anti-roll bar for sale if anyone wants one.
I now have all the pieces ready for finishing off the front axle, but I am hesitating to do this. It means fitting the brand new discs, and then it might be sitting unused for a time while I finish the rear floor. So I will probalby do the rear cargo floor next and then finish the front off.
- This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by mrmosky.
The front axle is now back on the car with the replacement springs. Now the assembly of the hubs can be done, and antiroll bar. It shouldn’t be long befre she is back on all four wheels.
After the shaft was replaced, and the top cover was put on, I checked the backlash in the box and adjusted it. Then the box was wire brushed and then given a coat of paint. It is now ready to go back in the car. Hopefully with no leaks!
The main seal is a hydraulic piston seal, which according to the Land Rover forum is the same one that is included in the genuine LR kit, at a price of £150.00! The cheaper kits have na ordinary oil seal, which is not any good. So here is the special seal installed in the box, with the washer and circlip. The second oil seal goes in after this.
Then the shaft can be re-fitted into the box.
The seals were removed from the bottom of the box. They were really soft and loose. No wonder they were leaking.
New seals were bought from FPE seals, online. The main seal is made by Polymaster, part number SA175125-028P, and the second seal that goes after the circlip is oil seal 32mmx45mmx6mm.
I put this into the lathe for some light sanding with fine wet and dry paper.
The shaft looked in reasonable condition, with a slight groove where the seal had rubbed.
The top of the box can then be inspected, the bearings look good, and there was no sideways movement.
I found out that the output shaft can be removed without disturbing the input shaft or the piston shaft. The top cap bolts are removed and then the adjusting lock nut. Then by rotating the adjustment screw, the cap is gradually pushed off. Then the output shaft can be tapped upwards and out of the box, using a soft faced hammer.
The next job is now on the bench. The steering box has slowly been leaking oil from the bottom seal. This is a common fault. You can just change the oil seal, but I think that the bearing has some play in it, which means any new seal will soon start to leak. So, a complete stripdown and inspection is required. The drop arm is quite difficult to remove. I applied a bit of heat and then belted it with a hefty hammer. It soon came off. We shall see what it looks like inside..
While the weather was bad, I decided to try and reduce the amount of smoke that the engine was producing. This seems to have got worse since I changed the cylinder head, and so it seemed like a good idea to start with the fuel injectors. I had some spare ones, so I dismantled them and cleaned the parts. I managed to assemble 5 good ones out of the eight spares I had. Today I finished putting them back in the engine, with new sealing washers. I’m glad to say that the smoke is much reduced once the engine is warmed up, and it idles more smoothly too.
The new brake discs have arrived. These will be stored until I have the front axle reassembled. That will have to wait for the weather to improve.
The work will slow down for a few weeks now, as the weather has got worse. There are still a few jobs I can do in the shed, as long as it’s not too cold. Recently, I dismantled and cleaned out the front wheel locking hubs. These were OK after cleaning, and so I will put these to one side until needed. The 6 screws that hold these onto the hubs are an odd size 8/32″ x 32 tpi, with a non-standard taper too. Some of them were damaged on removal, and so I will replace them with 4mm x 0.7 stainless cap head screws. This is a standard size and similar to the original. I can tap out the thread to metric 4mm, and counter bore the housing to suit.
Meanwhile, the steering knucles have been in the rust remover, and then painted.
The front axle is now off the car. I have wire brushed it and painted it with a coat of red oxide primer. Eventually, it will be painted black.
Ok, Hee is a picture of the one on my engine, you can’t see too much, but it looks the same as one I have lifted from the Ummonline4x4 website. Hope this helps.